Monday, February 13, 2006

Bangalore

For some time we have been meaning to visit Bangalore and experience the epicenter of the information technology (IT) revolution on the subcontinent. Back in 2000 (pre-Kaia) we had visited for a few days, but it was just typical traveler-transit time where you are hardly there in mind. Indiamama was going to be returning from a weeklong business trip and flying out of Bangalore, so Kaia and I decided to meet here there and make a weekend of it. What a great weekend it was. Since Indiamama’s trip was rather stressful, she had requested that we stay in a “poolside resort” kind of place—this led us to the Oberoi, a true oasis in the heart of a bustling city.

Bangalore has many of the problems that affect India’s urban centers—an infrastructure pushed past the breaking point, a booming population, pollution that you can taste, and loads of foreign capital trying to take advantage of the highly educated work force who will work for a fraction of those in other places. Often referred to a the “garden city,” when it is not swallowed up by the thousands of commuters, (as we saw early Sunday morning) it maintains much of the “old world” charm of the pre-liberalized (1993) Indian world. Trees line relatively well maintained roads and the signs of negligent public works—crumbling walkways, makeshift road dividers, swirling litter—that are pervasive in Chennai are not as apparent in Bangalore. We got around town in our friend’s little electric car and wondered what India would be like with more of these economical, quiet, non-polluting little vehicles…But, frankly, what was going outside of the Oberoi’s grounds was not such a concern to us on this trip. This trip was all about indulgence and being pampered. As true as the four different kinds of luxury pillows that we were asked to choose between and the 24 hour “butler service”, I say this without shame.

More than anything, this trip allowed Kaia (and all of us) to experience things that we have been unable to do in Chennai—a roll in clean grass, a real bath, eat salami and gouda cheese, chase butterflies, watch television, listen to frogs… From the time that Kaia ran onto the grounds, he face just lit up—he could ran around without indiapapa at arm’s reach scanning the area for broken glass, stray dogs and uncovered cesspools. Of course, I exaggerate a bit here, but it was like he was an uncaged puppy—doing rolls in the grass, picking flowers and leaping after butterflies—all with an ear to ear grin. It was sweet to watch, but a sense of guilt overcame me in that I felt that I have been denying him these core pleasures of childhood because of this place that we have chosen to live—that is, in Chennai. As someone who used to expose elementary students the wonder of gardens and the environment is it wickedly ironic that my own son has been so locked in this concrete jungle for the past year. It was at this point that I clearly recognized what being here any longer than we need to be would deprive Kaia of. Our time here has been so memorable and he has developed in ways that we can never really know, but I think that we may be nearing the upper limits of what this environment has to offer him…

But living in India has been about the people—our friends and the lifetime relationships that have been fostered during this past year. Two of these folks live in Bangalore, Kaia’s Auntie Muthatha and Uncle Nitin, and spending time with them this past weekend was also really fun. Knowing about Kaia’s affinity for Indian dancing and percussion, they got us all tickets for a performance by two of India’s more famous performers—Ustad Zakir Hussain (on tabla) and Pandit Birju Maharaj (dancing). Kaia actually slept through the first half of it because of the day’s earlier excitement (plane ride! Airport! Bus ride!), but enjoyed it tremendously. On Saturday night we all went out for a tasty Italian dinner where I actually was able to eat something that I have been craving for months—arugula! Kaia grubbed down a whole plate of penne pasta and when I asked him if he was having a fun time, all he said was “so much fun papa”.

Why I Love this Time: To experience these new places together as a family—and to see how Kaia recognizes and loves “family time”.

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